I also printed this Falcon Clamp because it’s a great model for testing the printer calibration. After installing a spare nozzle from the box, the issue disappeared. For some reason, the smooth section in the back has some small imperfections but I think that’s caused by the nozzle. The results are really good, with minor Z banding. To test the full build volume of the Kingroon KP3S, I printed the Darth Vader Bust from Eastman. I was expecting worse quality out of the box.īut as you can see, this benchy is fairly good.Ī small amount of Z banding is present, and I think this is caused by the single gear extruder which can have trouble in consistently feeding filament if the spool is not set right. Considering this is a stock machine, it’s not bad. If this happens, a replacement is around 13$, but I would recommend upgrading to a PEI Spring Steel Sheet for an extra 3$.Īs always, first print on the Kingroon KP3S is a 3D Benchy. Some filaments tend to stick a bit too much on this magnetic print surface and it can be damaged. The main concern for me is that after a while you will need to replace it. Prints stick well to it and you can easily remove prints by “peeling” them off the print surface. ![]() It’s similar to the one you get with the old Creality Ender 3. Removable magnetic print surfaceĪnother interesting addition to the Kingroon KP3S is the magnetic removable print surface. The included spool holder is not that great, but it works. The space savings you would get with a regular power supply would be minimal considering that you need a place to put your filament spool. I would have loved to see a “power brick” like you get with a laptop but this would have probably raised the price.Īll things considered, it’s not that bad because you could have the spool holder on top of the power supply. The fan is thermally controlled so it’s powering on from time to time. This is a regular 24V 360W no-name power supply which is present on other cheap 3D printers. While the Kingroon KP3S is a compact machine, some extra space is needed for the power supply. If you don’t print too fast, this can be fine, but adding a radial fan will allow you to have much better overhangs, supports will be removed easier and you will save your sanity if you keep the printer in the same room. It’s not capable of pushing too much air to cool the printed model and it produces a lot of noise. Instead of a radial fan, the Kingroon KP3S uses a regular 3010 fan which is not the right tool for this job. It’s the noisiest heatbreak fan I heard on all of my printers and the part cooling fan is the same. Unfortunately, this fan is extremely noisy. To cool the heat break, a V6-like heatsink is mounted and a 3010 fan blows cool air over it. It uses V6 nozzles in a somewhat similar heatblock. It uses an MK8 thread which connects it directly to the metal extruder. The hotend is something I haven’t seen before. Besides that, you also get a more accurate extrusion and better performance when printing flexible filaments like TPU. If you’re into modding your printer, you could upgrade to a BMG Wind which will make the whole direct drive setup lighter. ![]() ![]() It’s not a geared extruder so it might be a bit less accurate compared to a BMG but it works well enough for good quality prints. The direct drive extruder present on the Kingroon KP3S is comprised of a regular NEMA17 stepper motor and a metal extruder, just as the ones found on Creality printers. This will require a bit of modification, but it will ensure a much longer life for the board by decreasing the load on that barrel connector. The best way to mitigate this issue and make sure that no damage occurs for the board is adding a mosfet to power the bed. The heatbed is the most power-hungry component on this printer and I don’t think that the barrel connector is rated for too much power draw. Unfortunately, I think that the main drawback of this board is the power connector. It has removable stepper drivers which allow you to easily swap them if one of them gets damaged over time. 32-bit board with TMC2225 driversĪnother welcome addition to the Kingroon KP3S is the 32-bit board which uses TMC2225 drivers. I don’t think potential buyers wouldn’t pay an extra ~10$ to have a 3D printer with linear rails on all axes. I would have liked to see a 3rd linear rail for the Z axis for a complete package, but I can’t say that the regular wheels do a bad job. You won’t be able to push this printer too much without influencing the print quality. In theory, adding the linear rails gives the printer more accurate movements and it should also be able to print faster but it’s held back by the cantilever setup and the direct drive extruder weight. Considering that the Kingroon KP3S is a compact budget machine, it’s really nice to see it equipped with linear rails for the X and Y axis.
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